Taormina

Perched dramatically on a clifftop, gazing out at the Ionian Sea and Mount Etna, Taormina demands attention. Everyone knows it, of course. It’s been charming visitors for centuries, and for good reason. The town's spine, Corso Umberto I, is a pedestrian lifeline. By day, it’s a promenade; come evening, it transforms into Sicily's grandest catwalk. Grab an aperitivo, settle in, and watch the world go by. That's a Taormina evening, right there. Here’s the rub, though: everyone else knows it’s special too. Come July and August, particularly as dusk settles over Corso Umberto and the ancient Greek Theatre, Taormina’s popularity becomes its paradox. What feels lively to some can be simply overrun to others. Want the real magic? Set your alarm. Before the day-trippers descend, Taormina is a different place entirely – perfect for capturing that photo, or just savouring a quiet coffee. Taormina doesn't give up its beauty easily. It clings to Monte Tauro, meaning those famous views – you can see all the way to Calabria on a clear day – come with a price: stairs. Lots of them. And steep, winding streets. Forget the heels. Even if you plan on cabbing it or riding the cable car up, your feet will thank you for decent trainers. It's a workout, yes, but the payoff from a high piazza? Absolutely worth every step. Where to lay your head? Taormina isn't cheap. Expect accommodation to reflect its luxury status. The debate often boils down to this: right in the thick of it, or a little removed? Centre-dwellers love stepping straight out onto the Corso, noise be damned. For them, immediate access to shops and dinner spots trumps a quiet evening. But if you're chasing value and a calmer vibe, look for hotels just outside the heart. Many offer shuttles, or a quick walk gets you to the cable car station for the beaches at Isola Bella and Mazzarò. It's a trade-off, really: a front-row seat to the show, or a peaceful retreat with easy access? Don't eat on the Corso. Taormina's culinary scene stretches from no-frills trattorias to places with stars in their eyes. But here’s the inside track: skip the main squares for anything more than a quick coffee. Dive into the side streets. That’s where you'll find the honest-to-goodness Sicilian cooking, often at a fraction of the price. The quality? Exceptional. Seafood straight from the Ionian, pistachios folded into everything from pasta to gelato – it's all there, and it's all delicious. Ultimately, Taormina isn't a checklist destination. Yes, you'll want to see the theatre, maybe take the cable car down to Isola Bella. But the real joy here? It's in the pauses. The unhurried lunch that stretches into the afternoon. That moment on a quiet piazza, just watching the light change over Etna. It's about savouring, not rushing. Give yourself permission to just be. That's when Taormina truly reveals itself.