Sri Lankan culture, etiquette and the law for visitors

The everyday customs

Sri Lankans are famously warm hosts, and a little effort goes a long way. Greet people with palms pressed together and Ayubowan (Sinhala) or Vanakkam (Tamil): both carry the wish for a long life. English is widely understood in hotels, shops and towns, so the phrases above are about courtesy more than necessity.

• Right hand: eat, pay, and give or take things with your right hand, or both hands together. The left hand is traditionally used for washing.
• The head wobble: a sideways roll of the head usually means “yes”, “OK” or “I’m listening”, not “no”.
• Affection in public: keep it low-key. Kissing and cuddling in public are frowned upon, even for married couples.
• Dress: beachwear belongs on the beach. In towns, cover up more; at religious sites, shoulders and knees.
• Monks: offer them your seat (buses often reserve the front seats for clergy) and keep a respectful distance.
• Eating with your hands: rice and curry is traditionally eaten with the fingers of the right hand. Cutlery is always available if you prefer.

Temples and Buddha images

Buddhism is the religion of about 70% of Sri Lankans, and respect for the Buddha is taken very seriously, including in law. Disrespecting Buddhist images or making offensive remarks about religion is a serious offence. In practice that means:

• Take off shoes and hats before any temple, shrine or stupa terrace. Stone gets hot by midday, so carry socks.
• Cover shoulders and knees. A sarong or scarf in your bag solves this anywhere.
• Never pose with your back to a Buddha statue, climb on one, or touch it for a photo.
• Visible Buddha tattoos have led to visitors being refused entry or deported. Keep them covered. Buddha images on clothing are also best avoided.
• Hindu kovils, mosques and churches have their own rules: follow what local visitors do, and ask if unsure.

Poya days

Every full moon is a Poya day, a Buddhist holy day and public holiday. Shops selling alcohol and fresh meat close, many bars and hotel restaurants stop serving alcohol, and families visit temples dressed in white. Plan around it, or join in: temple lamps and chanting on a Poya evening are unforgettable. Check the dates in the festival calendar.

What will get you into trouble

• Drugs: including cannabis. Expect a long jail sentence and heavy fines for possessing, using or smuggling them.
• Topless or nude sunbathing: not allowed anywhere.
• Photography: don’t photograph or film military bases, government buildings, or VIP vehicles and convoys, which includes several sites in central Colombo.
• Smoking and drinking in public: avoid both; police can fine you for ignoring no-smoking signs.
• Exports: coral, shells, protected marine products and wild animals or their parts can’t leave the country. Antiques more than 50 years old need a permit from the Director-General of Archaeology.
• Driving without a permit: foreigners need a Sri Lankan recognition permit as well as their licence. See our transport guide.

Drones

Sri Lanka is spectacular from the air, but drones are tightly controlled. Register your drone and get flight approval from the Civil Aviation Authority of Sri Lanka before you fly; the process is online. Even with approval, there’s no flying near airports, over military or government sites, in national parks, or over archaeological sites such as Sigiriya, Anuradhapura and Polonnaruwa without separate permission from the Department of Archaeology. Religious sites, including the Temple of the Tooth in Kandy, are off limits too. If in doubt, leave it in the bag: a confiscated drone ends the fun quickly.

Bargaining and tipping

Haggle politely at markets and with street tuk-tuks; fixed-price shops, supermarkets and app taxis don’t bargain. Many hotels and restaurants add a 10% service charge to the bill. Beyond that, tipping drivers, guides and hotel staff is customary and appreciated, since wages are low. More in the money section of our Sri Lanka guide.